Gebel Elba at 1437m is far from being the highest
of the group of mountains that overlooks the Red Sea
but because of its unique attributes it is the most
important area for flora and fauna in Egypt and is
the centerpiece of the Elba Protected Area, which
covers an area of approximately 35,600km² in
the most southeasterly corner of Egypt.
Although rainfall on Gebel Elba averages only 50mm,
its location facing the sea and its elevation increases
annual precipitation to as much as 400mm on its upper
reaches. Moist air from the Red Sea condenses on the
peak of the mountain creating a mist oasis in which
much of the moisture is dew and mist. The coast curves
slightly to the east at this point, thus Gebel Elba
presents an unusually broad front to the sea across
a 20 – 25km strip of relatively flat land. The
whole of the mountain is dissected by small wadis;
these drain into larger wadis that eventually debouch
into the plains below. Wadi Yahameib and Wadi Aidieb
drain the north and northeast flanks of Gebel Elba
and several species of Acacia form dense woods in
their lower reaches, supported by the moisture from
above. On its southern side the principal drainage
is into Wadi Serimtai, which is characterized by open
Acacia scrub.
The amount of available moisture is reflected in
the flora and fauna on this mountain, which has the
richest biodiversity of any area of comparable size
in Egypt. A surprising number of the species found
on Gebel Elba are not found anywhere else in Egypt
and are mostly formed of Afrotropical elements for
which this mountain is the northernmost limit. The
flora consists of nearly 500 species, of which cryptogams
(ferns and mosses) are fairly common at higher elevations.
Among these are the delicate Anogramma leptophylla,
which can be found in shady rock fissures and the
well-known Maidenhair fern, Adiantum capillus-veneris,
distinguished by its polished black stipes (stems)
and delicate fronds. This little fern grows near water
in warm temperate and sub-tropical areas of the world
and was used by the Ancient Greeks to treat coughs.
At least one species of plant (Biscutella elbensis)
is endemic. The Ombet tree, Dracaena ombet, is found
in Egypt, only on the higher slopes of Gebel Elba.
The Ombet is a rather small tree related to the famous
Dragon Tree of the Far East and when its rosettes
of sword-like leaves are crowned with 30cm-long clusters
of pink flowers it presents a truly dramatic appearance.
The Gebel Elba Snake-eyed Lizard, Ophisops elbaensis,
is a strikingly colored lizard that was originally
thought to be endemic to Gebel Elba but has since
been found in the Arabian Peninsula. In Egypt it is
restricted to this area as is Dodson's Toad, Bufo
dodsoni. The deadly Saw-scaled Viper, Echis
pyramidum, is also found in the area.
Two of the mammals found in the area, the Zoril, Ictonyx
striatus, and the Aardwolf, Proteles cristatus,
are sub-Saharan species. The Barbary Sheep, Ammotragus
lervia, which was thought to be extinct in the
Eastern Desert has recently been found to be extant
in the area and in recent years fresh pugmarks of
the Leopard, Panthera pardus pardus, have
been seen. The mountain has been identified by BirdLife
International as one of the Important Bird Areas (IBAs)
of Egypt due to the high proportion of breeding birds
found there. Many of these birds are either Afrotropical
species or have disappeared from their former range
in North Africa and the Middle East. Among them is
the attractive red-breasted Rosy-patched Shrike, Rhodophoneus
cruentus, which is found nowhere else in Egypt.